Smoky Mountain Walkabout 2

October 5, 2009 by Bill Riley.

It’s the end of September and it’s time for my fall walkabout.  This year, I decided to spend some time wondering about The Great Smoky Mountain National Park.  Having visited briefly several years ago, I thought that I needed to return and learn a little more about park.  (Also, having recently retired, I needed a little “think time” to kind of prioritize things.) 

A walkabout is generalized as a short interrupt of one’s work-life to spend an indeterminate time in the bush following a spiritual self journey.  The intent is to assess yourself and to re-align your priorities so that you’re confident that your life is heading in the right direction.  This is a luxury!  Few people get the chance to just take off and be gone for as long as they want.  I am very lucky to be able to do this.

Cade’s Cove

Cade’s Cove is a special place for photographers.  There’s wildlife, scenic, flower, and historic subjects to keep you busy for days on in.  The area consists of an eleven mile road looping through a high Smoky Mountain valley.  It’s a single lane motor trek that takes you past fields where you’ll find deer, turkey, the occasional bear, and many species of native birds.  There are several log cabins and barns maintained by the park service and freely accessible with pull off parking nearby.  There is even an operating mill at about mid-point in the loop where you’ll find an attendant willing to provide details on its operation.  You’re free to explore most of the structures in the cove.  Even on busy days, there seems to be plenty of room for photographers and sightseers. 

While there are a few gravel road accesses to the cove, the single paved road access is from Townsend – about a 45 minute drive from Pigeon Forge.

Roaring Fork

I have a fascination with this place.  It was my third time visiting and like the other two times, I left feeling that I need to return.  Each time I made the motor loop, I found something else to come back for.  This time was the discovery of the nature tail behind the Ogle Place at the beginning of the motor loop.  I parked near the cabin and followed the well marked trail back for about a quarter mile.  Coming upon a rock wall, I discovered the remains of what looked to be a weaning cabin.  Just beyond that was a very well preserved tub mill.  I only had my DSLR with me so I took a few snaps and studied how I could get a good angle on the mill.  Unfortunately, the only decent position I could see was from the other side of the feeder stream which was too full to get across without getting wet.  I’m going back with the view camera and get across that stream someday… maybe next spring.

  Tub Mill

Near the trail head to Grotto Falls, a black bear dashed out in front of my car.  I pulled over to the side and watched for a while.  She seemed pretty

much oblivious to me and went about nosing around the bush.  Then all of a sudden, she looked up, startled, and sprinted up a tree.   Wondering what could have scared the bear, I saw another bear come out of the bush.  The first bear was definitely afraid of this second one.  I really couldn’t tell the difference – maybe the second one was the neighborhood bully.  It was interesting to watch the two.  After a while, the second bear left and the first one finally came back down the tree.  One thing for sure the first bear wasn’t going to come down until the coast was clear.  Now the biggest shame about all of this was that it was nearly dark.  I pushed my camera’s ISO rating to max.  But even with image stabilization, I only got a couple of passable images of the bears.

Cataloochee

Cataloochee is another settlement area similar to Cade’s Cove.  However, it is more difficult to access and a bit off the beaten path.  Traveling from Gatlinburg, follow highway 321 East to Interstate 40, then head South towards Ashville, North Carolina.  After crossing the state line, continue South for about another 20 miles.  There are plenty of signs directing you to Cataloochee.  The road is narrow and eventually turns into gravel for about 5 or 6 miles.  It will turn back into pavement once you arrive in the Cataloochee valley.  There are several houses, a church, and an old two room school house to explore.  Watch the fields near the ranger station at dusk or dawn for signs of the elk herd.

  Entering Cataloochee

  Elk

Clingmans Dome

At 6,642 feet, Clingmans Dome is the highest point in the Smoky Mountain Park.  It’s an easy one hour drive from Gatlinburg on a well paved highway.  Try to time your visit to arrive at the top about a half hour or more before sunset.  That is one spectacular sight!  At the top there is a paved pathway up to an observation tower on the mountain summit.  From there you can see the entire mountain range – three hundred sixty degrees.  If you’re shooting film, be sure to bring plenty.  The most fascinating sight was watching the “smoky” clouds flowing through the mountain valleys.  It was like watching from heaven.

 Clouds rolling over the hills.

  Sunset at Clingmans Dome

Pigeon Forge

I didn’t go for all of the area attractions in Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge.  In fact, I hadn’t even planned to go to town.  Originally, I thought I would tent camp at one of the park campgrounds.  I’m not really an avid camper but on these trips, it’s often more convenient to stay close to where I plan to shoot.  Unfortunately, there are almost no services at the campgrounds (showers) and few sources of water.  Also, the camping fees are more than $20 per night – not an issue if you’re in a travel camper with several people.  But since I was traveling alone, I decided to go to Pigeon Forge where decent rooms for less than $35 are abundant.  I recommend the Roadway Inn — $34 per night including a great pancake breakfast.

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